By Editor Scarlett Dargan
Souper dooper Southern Thai dishes are spicier and, by consensus, more delicious than those of the north. Test the theory in a poolside booth at Pak Tai (at The Ritz-Carlton, see right). Chilli fiends love its fiery tom yum (Thai soup with prawns, lemongrass and lime, above) and 12-hour slow-cooked beef massaman with sticky rice. The price doesn’t leave a bad taste, either: mains start at £20.
Seafood, eat food Fish House (kimpton kitalaysamui.com), on the northeast tip of Samui, is a must for seafood fans. It’s twice Michelin-recommended, yet even the most-hyped dish – moules frites à la clam, fished mere metres from where you sit – is just £15. Leave space for the banana & smoke (£6; coconut mousse and caramelised banana) and a £5.50 (only!) Strawberry Salty Dog cocktail with vodka and fresh grapefruit.
Laid-back luxe Set on a sprawling former coconut plantation, The Ritz-Carlton, Koh Samui (above, doubles from £300, ritz-carlton.com) is the island’s largest resort. Suites and huts are swanky – the sea-view villas with private pools are honeymoon heaven, all neutral interiors and local art. There are reams of free activities (especially for little ones), from garland-making to Muay Thai boxing classes and a fish-feeding experience at the hotel’s artificial swim-reef.
Cheap and cheerful On the east coast, Crystal Bay Beach Resort (crystalbaysamui.com) has idyllic views over the Gulf of Thailand. With large outdoor swimming pools and relaxed, air-conditioned rooms, it’s unbelievably good value: a villa for four starts at £82 a night. The huge breakfast is £8 extra, but at that price who’s counting?
Shop then flop In northern Samui’s Bophut, Fisherman’s Village is a hubbub of food joints, bars and shops. Buy souvenir carved coconut bowls and mango sticky rice, then loll over cocktails (£6) and pizza (£10) around a beach table at Rice x de Pier (ricexdepier.com).
Culture fix Rising 15 metres over northern Samui’s Wat Plai Laem Buddhist Temple, the statue of Chinese goddess Guanyin (above) is a must-see – just avoid visiting at midday as there’s little shade from the 35-degree heat.
Animal magic Thailand is heaving with dodgy zoos luring tourists. But Samui Elephant Sanctuary (samuielephantsanctuary.org, tours from £60) is a best-practice welfare organisation helping elephants rescued from enslavement in the tourism industry. Feed and observe the free-roaming giants, knowing everything’s above board.