For many years, Australia was the UK鈥檚 primary wine supplier by volume. That crown has been taken by Italy, but we still remain Australia鈥檚 largest export market.
I have to confess, I was definitely part of a cohort of drinkers turned off by Aussie chardonnay for years. Call it the Bridget Jones Effect, but the idea of a big, brash, ballsy oak bomb in my glass didn鈥檛 appeal one jot.
Chardonnay is rather a chameleon of a grape variety, and is easily influenced (and led astray) by oak. On the one hand this means creating wines of complete ethereal pleasure, such as the Burgundian beauties 鈥 Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault and friends 鈥 where perfectly toasted oak imparts a textural creaminess and elegance that鈥檚 unparalleled in its pleasure. But at the other extreme, it can often be a cover-up for all sorts of misdemeanours, and the wines feel like you鈥檙e being industrially dipped in a bath of synthetic vanilla syrup.
And sadly, it鈥檚 these latter, cheaper wines that have had a lasting impact on our collective chardonnay psyche. I know I definitely have friends who are still in camp ABC: Anything But Chardonnay.
But that has most definitely changed. When asked what country makes the most exciting chardonnay, I always have one answer: Australia (and I鈥檓 not talking about Yellow Tail).
Yes, of course France is utterly enchanting and magical for the chardonnay produced in Burgundy, but it so regularly comes with a price tag which is, quite frankly, way too expensive for my wine budget.
West coast America has some seriously great chardys, too, but for the sheer scope in quality, Australia has an abundance of achingly cool winemakers producing some outstanding 鈥渃ool鈥 chardonnay. As Amelia Jukes said recently on her showcase of Australian chardonnay in London, these are 鈥渂eautifully balanced wines with freshness, elegance, and exquisite class, imbued with complexity, depth, and outstanding ageing potential鈥.
It鈥檚 a world away from All Bar One鈥檚 鈥渂uy two glasses and get the bottle free鈥 on a Friday night. (No judgement if that鈥檚 your vibe).
There are five key regions to look out for when sourcing great Aussie chardonnay: Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Margaret River, Adelaide Hills and Tasmania. Each of them come with their own unique and beautiful expressions of the world鈥檚 most noble white grape variety.
Many producers are eschewing the use of oak altogether, favouring stainless steel tanks or concrete, emphasising chardonnay鈥檚 ability to be lean and taut. And where oak is used, it might be older wood, which imparts no flavour, but allows the wine to gently oxygenate thanks to the tiny pores in the barrels. And if it鈥檚 new oak? Well, it鈥檚 being used so judiciously that it rivals some of France鈥檚 finest whites.
I really hope you don鈥檛 need convincing any further. If you鈥檙e a wine lover, you really should be a chardonnay lover 鈥 there鈥檚 no white grape in the world that rivals its potential for greatness (sorry, riesling). So why not reconnect with your friends from down under with one of these Antipodean delights?
Available from The Wine Society, 拢15.50, 13 per cent ABV
Admittedly, this has aromas of new oak 鈥 but it’s a gorgeous, generous and textured chardonnay, with slices of fresh pineapple, white peaches and dustings of vanilla spice. It feels rather opulent and effortlessly refined. It鈥檚 definitely not a fish-bowl of Bridget Jones chardy.
Available from Tesco, 拢15.00, 12.5 per cent ABV
It can be hard to find good quality Australian chardonnay in the supermarket, but this is a great effort from Tesco. It leans into notes of nectarines and fresh lime citrus, alongside a soft, creamy and very bright finish. Tasmania is one of Australia鈥檚 most exciting wine regions for chardonnay, but their pinot noirs and traditional method sparkling are also great, too.
Available from The Sampler, 拢31.90, 13.5 per cent ABV
It鈥檚 possible that Kate McIntyre is not only one of the most delightful people in wine, she also makes some of the most beautiful chardonnays I鈥檝e had the pleasure of tasting. Her parents, Richard and Jill McIntyre, were early pioneers in the Mornington Peninsula, and everything from this estate sings. The estate chardonnay is like tucking into a lemon posset with zests of lemon rind running through it. There鈥檚 also soft peaches, mouthwatering melon and a hint of lemongrass, too. A beautiful, layered wine with both generosity and mouth-watering acidity.
Available from Vinum, 拢32.60, 12.8 per cent ABV
A glorious wine to convince any cynic that believes Aussie chardonnay is big and flouncy. This is lean and taut with crunchy, golden apples, slices of lemon, delicate orange blossom and fresh ginger. Giant Steps is an outstanding producer, and it鈥檚 worth stepping it up and seeking out their single-vineyard sites too. It鈥檚 the sort of value you dream of finding in Burgundy, but seldom do.
Available from Vinum, 拢24, 13 per cent ABV
This perfectly poised, delicate, light-bodied wine is a masterclass in judicious use of oak. Enticing aromas and flavours of fresh green apple, early summer apricots, drops of lime juice on a salt-rimmed glass and the most elegant hint of vanilla.
Rosamund Hall (DipWSET) is The Independent鈥檚 wine columnist and a freelance writer and presenter. She specialises in wine and spirits as well as travel and lifestyle