After triggering a massive controversy and facing social media backlash over featuring slippers similar to Maharashtra鈥檚 Kolhapuri chappals, Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has now acknowledged that its collection was inspired by Indian handmade footwear.
The leather slipper with open toes presented by Prada showed striking similarities to the heritage leather footwear that artisans have crafted for generations in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
鈥淲e acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men鈥檚 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship,鈥 Lorenzo Bertelli, a representative from Prada said in a reply to Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA).
The Italian house, however, said that sandals featured in the fashion show are still at the design stage and none of the pieces worn by models on the ramp are confirmed to be commercialised.
鈥淧lease note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised,鈥 Bertelli added in its response.
He further said that Prada is committed to responsible design and respecting traditional Indian crafts. The brand wishes to engage with local Indian artisans and ensure they get proper credit for their work.
鈥淲e are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft,鈥 he said in his reply.
The response came after MACCIA president Lalit Gandhi objected to Prada鈥檚 June 23 Milan show, where sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals were labeled simply as 鈥渓eather sandals,鈥 with no mention of Indian influence.
Gandhi, who raised the concern with the foreign brand after seeing the visuals, in the interest of the local artisans and the industry, had appreciated cultural exchange in fashion but criticised Prada for not crediting the original makers or working with local artisans.
In a letter to Prada, Gandhi had urged the fashion house to publicly acknowledge the inspiration and also sought exploration collaborations and fair compensation to the artisans and also an adherence to ethical fashion practices that respect traditional knowledge and cultural rights.
鈥淭he Kolhapuri chappal is very distinct and we want our footwear to go to newer markets. But it has to get the rightful recognition,鈥 Gandhi told news agency PTI on Saturday.
MACCIA also reminded Prada about the traditional handcrafted leather sandal being awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Government of India in 2019.
Prada鈥檚 Response To Maharashtra Government
In his reply, Bertelli clarified that the designs are still in the early stages and have not yet been approved for production.
Bertelli added, 鈥淲e are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities.鈥
What鈥檚 The Controversy?
In its Spring-Summer 2026 collection, the brand described the footwear as 鈥渓eather sandals鈥, with no reference to an Indian connection, evoking outrage from many in India鈥檚 fashion community as well as traditional makers of Kolhapuri chappals in western Maharashtra.
鈥淜olhapuri Chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra, India. These products are not only symbolic of regional identity, but they also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts,鈥 Gandhi鈥檚 letter said.
The controversy drew further attention after BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik led a group of Kolhapuri chappal artisans to meet Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis. They submitted a letter demanding action to protect the footwear鈥檚 GI rights and cultural importance.
Legal Action Against Prada?
According to the financial daily鈥檚 report, the Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM), which shares geographical indication (GI) certification for Kolhapuri chappals with Karnataka鈥檚 LIDKAR, is considering legal measures.
Although registered proprietors (LIDCOM and LIDKAR) and authorised users have legal rights to initiate proceedings within India鈥檚 borders, GI marks currently lack international legal safeguards.
(With inputs from PTI)