By Marion Ainge
From an open window, we hear a tinkling piano accompanying the voice of a soprano practising her musical scales. On Prague’s famous Charles Bridge, a lively jazz quartet entertains. And at legendary composer Dvorak’s former home, in Nelahozeves, we’re surrounded by the sounds of his internationally renowned New World Symphony which fills every room.
In 1969, Neil Armstrong, commander of the Apollo 11 spaceship and first man on the moon, took a cassette recording of this symphony, composed in the United States, on his epic mission.
It’s around two hours by EasyJet airline from northern UK airports to Prague, known as the city of 1,000 spires. Situated in the heart of Czechia, the blend of music, history, culture and gastronomy attracts around eight million visitors every year.
Our base is the luxurious, aptly named-5-star boutique Hotel Aria sited in the Old Town, just minutes from Charles Bridge. Rooms are dedicated to a specific style of music, artist or composer and there are other musical touches – the top of the bar counter is designed to resemble a piano keyboard. The exquisite, Baroque-themed Unesco Heritage garden is a favourite setting for the most romantic of wedding photographs. Breakfast at the Hotel Aria is a symphony of delights! I manage to resist the creamy pastries to choose a bowl of sweet, fresh strawberries and a truffle oil omelet.
The building of one of the oldest bridges in Europe, the Medieval, stone-arched Charles Bridge began in 1357 during the reign of King Charles lV and was completed in the early 15th century. At 516 metres long and almost 10 metres wide, it crosses the River Vltava from the Old Town to the castle, features 30 stone statues and is bordered by two towers. Pedestrianised, it’s always buzzing with two-way walkers and is full of activity with musicians, street entertainers, stalls, painters and artists. In the city, it’s also worth seeing the psychedelic, colour-splashed John Lennon Wall; Devil’s Canal also known as Little Prague Venice and the London-themed pub, complete with red telephone box. Beethoven and Mozart are listed among the city’s most famous visitors over the years.
The Bedrich Smetana Museum, within a neo-Renaissance building on the river banks, explores the life and works of one of the most influential Czech composers. The top of the Old Town Hall Gothic tower affords panoramic views of the city and houses the famous Astronomical Clock.
A two-hour journey takes us to Brno in south Moravia, a university city which boasts a vibrant gastronomy scene with trendy coffee shops and bars. In the great composer Janacek’s former house, now a memorial, a violinist plays a selection of Janacek’s 15 famous folk songs. This Brno is a very different one from the memory I have of a visit with one of my sons many years ago.
It was Bastille Day when we came across husband and wife French patriots clad in late 17th century blue, white and red costumes, who carried a large French flag on a pole. They were celebrating the historical turning point of the French Revolution. Our newfound friends spoke no English, but in a moody cavern bar, the language barrier was crossed with mother and son’s limited French. Czech liqueur, Becherovka helped us along as we waved the French flag.
In the historic town of Jihlava, an exhibition tour in Gustav Mahler’s house follows the world-famous composer’s life and work in his childhood home. We taste a shot with a kick of Mahlerovka, a Bohemian herbal liqueur, fragrant with linden blossom, which dates back to 1861 when the original recipe was created by Mahler’s father Bernard.
One of the most authentic dishes is Svickova, (tenderloin) or traditionally beef topside is served with cream-based vegetable sauce and dumplings. However, we enjoy lunch at the renowned 420 restaurant, situated in the oldest Prague square, where Czech cuisine, presented in an creative way with a difference, is designed by Michelin-starred chef, Radek Kasparek. Set within a former palace, the extraordinary interior design combines urban style with grandeur. Dishes are inspired works of art which taste incredible, but don’t expect your chosen plate to look like anything you imagine. This is the surprise element.
Our musical treats include a contemporary classical concert by the Prague Offspring Ensemble Modern 1 in the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, which is a leading venue for innovative culture and performance. I’m a traditionalist when it comes to classical music, but I’m open-minded about this new, avant garde musical experience. Following the last note, the orchestra and conductor receive rapturous applause and a standing ovation from an enthusiastic audience, who cheer and whoop, bringing the conductor back on stage several times for additional adulation.
My favourite memory of this incredible musical journey is of the heart-warming, open air Prague Spring Teen annual family festival concert within the flower-filled grounds of the St Agnes, Monastery, a 13th century convent and gallery in Prague, on a balmy evening This event is the culmination of a festival day featuring crazy games and activities aimed at youngsters and families. The professional vocalists’ selection of popular songs pleases adults and young ones alike. Everyone joins in the dynamic finale, which features the whole cast. Young children run up to jostle and jiggle about alongside the stage, singing loudly and playing ‘instruments’ they made in the workshops.
I still have the song in my head!
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