How this initiative is bringing Telugu food traditions back to life

By Neeraja Murthy

Gopi Bylapulla is a man on a mission. Through his initiative Onamalu, meaning ‘letters’ in Telugu, the Hyderabad-based food tech entrepreneur is determined to document and celebrate the rich culinary traditions of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana.

It has been a year since Onamalu began its journey, co-founded with Rohit Vasireddy, Gopichand Cherukuri, Vinay Reddy Mariyala and Anil Tagineni. In that time, the team has travelled over 30,000 kilometres across the two Telugu states, building a vibrant community of 25,000 food enthusiasts.

Gopi, who regularly shuttles between Amsterdam and Hyderabad as part of his work in the innovation sector, collaborating with the Netherlands government and the Indian embassy, has long been irked by how Telugu cuisine is often collapsed into the catch-all term “South Indian food”. “Many international delegates I meet have never even heard of Telugu food,” he says.

Closer to home, the realisation hit harder. “My own daughters didn’t recognise sarva pindi, a savoury pancake made with rice flour, pulses and spices from Telangana, or bhaksham, known as oliga in some regions, a traditional sweetbread stuffed with lentils from Rayalaseema,” he recalls. “When they asked what these dishes were, I had tears in my eyes. Our children shouldn’t grow up thinking of these foods as something alien or unfamiliar.”

For Gopi, Onamalu is not just about recipes, it is about reclaiming identity through food.

Inspiration

Gopi is fascinated by how countries like Japan, Italy, Korea and Thailand have successfully taken their culinary heritage to the world. Onamalu, conceived as a window into Telugu food and culture, draws inspiration from this model of culinary diplomacy, using food as a bridge across cultures. “My resolution is to make Telugu cuisine known globally. Exploring each region’s cooking style and unique flavour profiles offers a deeper understanding of their food traditions, habits, and way of life,” he says.

Alongside Gopi, the Onamalu team includes two chefs with hospitality backgrounds and a dedicated cameraman, all working to learn, document, and share recipes while fostering community connection. Their meet-ups — announced via Instagram — bring together food lovers, folk artists, and writers to exchange stories and preserve cultural memory.

One such moment of discovery came during a visit to the weavers of Dharmavaram. “It wasn’t just their skill that stood out, but their devotion to heritage,” Gopi reflects. “They refrain from alcohol and non-vegetarian food on weaving days, reserving their feasts for Sundays. That level of discipline and cultural observance was deeply moving.”

Of food, sights and culture

Be it the sweet and spicy bellam avakaya (mango pickle with jaggery) in Vizianagaram, the fiery kodi koora (also known as Ankapur chicken) from Ankapur village in Telangana’s Nizamabad district, the smoky mutton kaddilu (skewered mutton sticks) in Kurnool, malai kova in Nellore, or pakam garelu, jaggery-infused fritters from Perumalapuram in Kakinada — the culinary journey has been nothing short of revelatory, says Gopi. “The learning has been immense — we start by meeting the community to understand the region and its foodways. That’s where the real stories begin.”

Curated sessions

Inspired from these trips, the team has been organising curated food experiences in the city with ingredients sourced from the region for authenticity. Divided into Hyderabad, Telangana, Uttara and Costa Andhra (North and coastal Andhra) and Rayalaseema (three regions that make Andhra Pradesh.) Kathalu, the sessions have members sharing food stories too. “People opened their homes, cooked food, told stories and treated us like family. Instead of us telling their stories, we realised they are hungry to tell their own stories,” says Gopi referring to the initiative’s new plans of launching lived experiences.

From weekend workshops led by regional experts on how to make sarva pindi or jonne rotte (jowar roti), to a special session with the Raj Gond tribes of Adilabad preparing steamed delicacy ippa puvvu kudumulu (made with mahua flowers), the Onamalu team has a slew of plans lined up. These include launching curated culinary tours and laying the groundwork for a Telugu culinary academy. The hope is that such efforts will not only preserve heritage but also boost local economies and lead to sustainable, community-led growth.

As he prepares to travel to Dowlaeswaram near the Godavari in July, Gopi’s mission remains clear: “To see every Telugite take pride in their cuisine.”

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