By Thea Mulchandani
“Couture needs to be felt right from the moment you enter,” Karan Berry, creative director of Karleo, told Vogue India, 鈥淚t needs to be presented in a certain way, and sensed before it鈥檚 seen.鈥 At Karleo鈥檚 intimate couture preview of their latest collection in Dubai, curated by bridal stylist Couture with Christina, and in partnership with the Vogue Wedding Atelier, that ideal bloomed remarkably. Karan Berry and Leon Vaz, co-founders of Karleo, are ambassadors for the Vogue Wedding Atelier, a celebration of fine artistry and culture taking place in New Delhi, from August 8-10 at The Taj Palace.
At the showcase, guests were greeted with the soft cadence of a piano and the grounding, smoky scent of oudh. A private villa filled with scattered masterpieces set the tone for a breathtaking experience. The collection, titled Blooms of the World, is a love letter to flowers, with each piece inspired by a different flower like Japan鈥檚 delicate sakura, South Africa鈥檚 striking protea or India鈥檚 sacred lotus.
At the heart of Karleo鈥檚 design philosophy is love for duality, which shone through this endeavour. 鈥淚t鈥檚 all very soft, dainty, delicate, yet bold. Like with everything else that we do at Karleo, we aimed to create magic from the mundane. And with every texture, every beat, that鈥檚 exactly where we ended up,鈥 revealed Berry. Cut from fabrics like silk, tulle, duchess satin and crepe, Blooms of the World evolves seamlessly from evening wear with tea-length gowns, skirts and beaded corsets to bridal wear with a train and cape. 鈥淭o see that kind of harmony come about as the collection progressed was beautiful for us,鈥 shared Berry.
Karleo experimented with metal sheets, hand-cut into petals, zardozi embroidery and even mother-of-pearl roselets on one sculpted gown. 鈥淲hen people see the pieces up close, touch the embroidery, and feel the textures, you get to witness a moment,鈥 Berry reflected. 鈥淚t becomes a conversation between them and the clothes. And really, that鈥檚 what we aim for.鈥
But couture isn鈥檛 complete unless it鈥檚 worn. Throughout the evening, models walked the space dressed in pieces from Blooms of the World, bringing each garment to life. Guests could see the way embroidery shimmered in the light, how a fitted bodice curved at the waist or the drama with which a train flowed. It was an opportunity to admire the craftsmanship and to understand it. 鈥淭hey鈥檙e not just clothes, there鈥檚 a story behind each one of them. Every guest could touch, feel and interact with the collection, they experienced the story of how we crafted it,” shared Berry.
Enhancing the atmosphere in a distinctly fragrant way was Ajmal Perfumes India, who created an interactive experience in the villa. Their setup featured a carefully selected range of perfumes and oudh chips. As part of the evening, they hosted a traditional Bukhoor ceremony, where oudh was gently burned, releasing its warm, earthy aroma. The centuries-old ritual is used to welcome guests and imbue the space with a sense of peace and presence. Ajmal Perfumes India will also be hosting an enlightening masterclass at the upcoming Vogue Wedding Atelier.
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