By Anthony DeMarco Senior Contributor
The ‘Blue Chain Cascade’ necklace and earrings from ‘Collezione 1967,’ Pomellato’s 2025 high jewelry … More collection
Pomellato unveiled “Collezione 1967,” last week in Paris. The new high jewelry collection, consisting of 75 pieces, is named after the year the Italian luxury jewelry brand was founded.
The new collection is designed as a retrospective of Pomellato’s creative culture during the latter part of the 20th century, tracing three decades that forged its identity from its innovative chain artistry of the 1970s to the sculptural designs of the 1980s and the chromatic creations and exuberant forms of the 1990s.
Vincenzo Castaldo, Pomellato’s creative director said the new collection “marks a powerful return to our roots distilling the essence of three decades.”
Pomelatto’s ‘Chain Revolution’ of the 1970s
Pino Rabolini, Pomellato’s founder, elevated the chain from a secondary functional aspect of jewels to a main character by turning it into an artistic statement. Chains are now a significant part Pomellato’s identity in function and style. The new collection contains 20 examples of chain-making expertise, many of which are paved with diamonds and paired with statement gems. They are categorized as:
The ‘Blue Chain Cascade’ necklace from Pomellato’s 2025 high jewelry collection
“Blue Chain Cascade,” which features a 22.23-carat Ceylon sapphire surrounded by a dual-chain construction necklace paved with diamonds in a design that evokes a frozen waterfall.
‘Aquamarine Dream’ necklace from the Pomellato ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry collection
“Aquamarine Dream” reimagines the signature forçat chain in a design that showcases two central aquamarines: a 37.98-carat rounded-rectangular cabochon centerpiece and a 15.95-carat faceted drop pendant. Both gems are set in a surround of diamond pavé.
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‘Yellow Diamond Moon’ necklace from the Pomellato ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry collection
“Yellow Diamond Moon” is a white gold and white diamond suite that the brand says captures moonlight in motion. The necklace centers around a radiant 12-carat fancy light yellow diamond, set on a diamond-pavé chain. The design melds Pomellato’s signature gourmette chain with round links chain. The matching ring is designed with a white gold gourmette-chain shank and features a 7.05-carat yellow diamond solitaire surrounded by white diamonds.
The Art of Chains bracelet from the Pomellato ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry collection
“The Art of Chains” is a signature creation that features Pomellato’s chain layering technique. Four distinct chains, in rose and white gold, two adorned with pavé-set white diamonds, interweave.
Pomellato Precious Spring Ring from the ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry collection
The “Precious Spring Ring” is a transformative jewel that can transition from belt to bracelet to pendant. It is crafted in rose gold with pavé-set white diamonds and accented with baguette-cut diamonds. This chain design draws inspiration from Pomellato’s archives.
Pomellato Breaks the Rules of Design During the 1980s
During this decade, Pomellato used an architectural approach to jewelry design, pushing the boundaries of creativity through skilled techniques and bold sensual forms, where volume and shape were paramount. There are 18 pieces that represent the decade. They are categorized as follows:
‘Asimmetrico Tanzanite’ necklace from Pomellato’s ‘Collezione 1967 high jewelry collection
“Asimmetrico Tanzanite” is a chain centered around an irregular-shaped 55.96-carat tanzanite with a custom-made bezel setting in rose gold. The necklace’s asymmetrical construction features articulated gold plates pavé-set with white diamonds that flow like “fabric on the skin,” the luxury brand said. Each of the 78 modules are individually crafted and assembled, requiring 700 hours of craftsmanship. A matching ring with a 37.73-carat tanzanite with violet-blue depths, completes this suite.
‘Zigzag Supreme’ necklace from Pomellato’s ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry collection
“Zigzag Supreme” is a sculptural white gold zigzag chain, reinterpreting a design from Pomellato’s archives, illuminated by diamond-set touches. It provides the stage for a 23.78-carat pear cut tanzanite and a 19.91-carat hexagonal tanzanite pendant.
‘Rivière Zigzag’ necklace from the Pomellato ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry collection
The “Rivière Zigzag” necklace reinterprets the classic ‘rivière’ necklace, with an asymmetry design. The rose gold zigzag chain, pavé-set with diamonds cradles either an array of green tourmalines or rubellites. The green suite features 47.31 carats of tourmalines, accompanied by a ring with 14.80 carats of drop gems and earrings with pear, oval, square gem cuts totaling 27.94 carats. The red variant displays 50.85 carats of rubellites in the necklace and a ring with three drop rubellites of 16.10 carats.
Pomellato’s Chromatic Vision of the 1990s
During this period Pomellato focused on “radical” gemstone color combinations and bold volumes, which the brand described as “a defining moment when the Maison discovered its true creative voice.” This decade is represented by 37 pieces that showcase Pomellato’s gemstone artistry and chromatic approach.
‘Lagoon Bavarole’ necklace from the Pomellato ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry collection
The “Lagoon Bavarole” necklace is crafted with 47 irregular-cut tourmalines to create a cascade of green complemented by a rope chain set with white diamond pavé. The necklace is part of a suite that includes a matching ring that echoes this organic flow create a harmony of green tones.
Pomellato ‘Marvelous Griffe’ multi-colored earrings from the ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry … More collection
“Marvelous Griffe” is a series of ten pairs of earrings in rose gold and different hues all featuring oval cabochon gems. They include aquamarines, watermelon tourmalines, tanzanites, green tourmalines, indigolites, purplish-red and brownish-red rubellites, peridots, mandarin garnets and heliodors. They are all enhanced with pavé-set gems.
The Pomellato ‘Iconica Extreme’ bracelet from the ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry collection
“Iconica Extreme” is a rose gold chain suite with the necklace and bracelet featuring links that grow larger toward the center. Each is set with baguette-cut diamonds and illuminated by brilliant-cut diamonds creating precise spots of light across the design. A squared ring with rounded angles and architectural statement studs completes the core parure. They all feature the same interplay of baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds in a subtle gradation effect. The parure is complemented by a ring in which rose gold cradles a 12.27-carat cushion-cut emerald, enhanced by an exquisite emerald and diamond pavé setting.
Pomellato ‘Precious Snap Hook’ necklace from the ‘Collezione 1967’ high jewelry collection
“Precious Snap Hook” is a rose gold lariat necklace that embodies 1990s feminine empowerment and showcases Pomellato’s diamond-setting technique. The design features links of varying sizes, with select sections pavé-set with diamonds complemented by two different snap hooks offering different styling options. The long, fluid chain adapts to multiple wearing styles, such as double row, lariat, or sautoir, embodying Pomellato’s commitment to versatility and contemporary elegance.
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